Theodore Roosevelt National Park is one of North Dakota’s most noted attractions, protecting a dramatic landscape of painted badlands, rolling prairie, winding rivers and rugged buttes. It is also one of the best places in the state to see wildlife, with bison, wild horses, elk, prairie dogs and a wide variety of birds living throughout the park.
We only had one night there as part of a longer road trip, so we were happy that we got to explore the park and see some of the North Dakota prairies!
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
The park is divided into three separate units: the South Unit near Medora, the North Unit near Watford City, and the smaller Elkhorn Ranch Unit. For a first visit, the South Unit is the most accessible and easiest to explore, particularly if you are travelling along Interstate 94.
Its scenic drive, viewpoints and wildlife make it possible to experience a great deal of the park without committing to long hikes.
The Painted Canyon Visitor Center
If you are approaching Theodore Roosevelt National Park from the east, the Painted Canyon Visitor Center makes an excellent first stop. Located just off Interstate 94, it provides some context and information about the park before you start your exploration.
From the visitor center, a short walk leads to an overlook across the colourful badlands. Layers of sedimentary rock create a patchwork of reds, yellows, browns and greens, while the deeply eroded landscape stretches towards the horizon.
There are restrooms and picnic facilities, making it a convenient place to stop before continuing to Medora or the park itself.
Explore Medora
The small town of Medora sits immediately outside the South Unit and is closely connected with Theodore Roosevelt National Park. It is a good spot to stop for lunch or refuelling before entering the park.
Medora has a distinctly western character, with wooden storefronts, historic buildings, restaurants, cafés and shops. It is also home to several attractions connected with Theodore Roosevelt and the history of the region.
The town is particularly lively during the summer, when visitors come for the famous Medora Musical, but even outside show times it makes a convenient base for exploring the South Unit. You will find accommodation, restaurants, groceries and other practical facilities here.
Where to stay in Medora
If you are spending the night near the park, the AmericInn by Wyndham Medora, is a good option. Or the towns either side of Medora: The Baymont by Wyndham Dickinson or La Quinta Inn & Suites Casino and Bar by Wyndham Glendive.
Visit the South Unit Visitor Center
Before setting out on the scenic drive, stop at the South Unit Visitor Center. The visitor center has exhibits explaining the park’s natural and cultural history, as well as information about Theodore Roosevelt’s connection with the area.
A short introductory film provides useful background if this is your first visit, while the small gift shop sells books, souvenirs and park-related items.
The visitor center is also a good place to check current trail conditions and wildlife activity. Conditions can change quickly in the badlands, and wildlife may affect access to particular areas, so it is worth checking with park staff before setting off.
Walk the easy Skyline Vista trail from the South Unit Visitor Center, leading to an overlook with broad views across the Little Missouri River valley and the colourful badlands.
Drive the South Unit Scenic Loop
The South Unit Scenic Loop is the easiest way to experience Theodore Roosevelt National Park and should be at the top of your list if you only have a short time. The road winds through the badlands, passing a succession of overlooks, pullouts and short trails.
Rather than simply driving from one end to the other, allow plenty of time to stop along the way. The scenery changes constantly, with broad prairie views giving way to steep-sided buttes, wooded valleys and eroded rock formations.
The loop is particularly good for visitors who want to see the park without undertaking strenuous hikes. Many of the viewpoints are close to the road, and you can combine several short walks with the drive.
Allow at least two hours for the loop, and longer if you plan to stop frequently, photograph the scenery or take some of the trails.
Popular overlooks include Buck Hill, Boicourt Overlook and River Bend Overlook; and popular hikes include Wind Canyon Trail, Boicourt Overlook Trail and Coal Vein Trail.
We were going to hike Wind Canyon Trail, but the area was full of bison, so we had to skip that one!
Look for Bison and Wild Horses
Wildlife is one of the biggest attractions at Theodore Roosevelt National Park. American bison roam freely throughout the park and can often be seen from the scenic drive.
The park is also famous for its wild horses. These horses are descendants of domestic animals that were released or escaped into the badlands, and today they form an important part of the park’s character.
You may also encounter elk, mule deer, pronghorn and bighorn sheep, along with numerous smaller animals and birds.
Wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, but one of the pleasures of driving the park is never knowing what might appear around the next bend.
TIP: Remember that bison and horses are wild animals, despite how accustomed they may appear to vehicles and visitors. Keep a safe distance and never approach, feed or attempt to photograph them at close range.
Prairie Dog Towns
Prairie dogs are another unmistakable part of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park landscape. Large colonies create extensive prairie dog towns, with burrows covering the grasslands and animals popping in and out throughout the day.
They are entertaining to watch, but they also play an important role in the prairie ecosystem. Their burrowing and grazing activities influence the vegetation and provide habitat for other species.
Look for prairie dog towns along the scenic drive and near some of the park’s established viewpoints. They are often easier to spot than you might expect, particularly when several animals are standing upright and watching passing visitors.
Explore the North Unit
If you have more than a day in the area, consider making the drive to the North Unit. Located north of Interstate 94, it is considerably quieter than the South Unit and has its own scenic drive through a different section of the badlands.
The North Unit Scenic Drive follows the Little Missouri River and includes viewpoints such as River Bend and Oxbow Overlooks. There are also hiking opportunities, including the popular Caprock Coulee Trail.
The North Unit is worth considering for repeat visitors or anyone with additional time, although it requires a separate drive from Medora.
Theodore Roosevelt’s Elkhorn Ranch Site
For visitors interested in the history behind the national park’s name, the Elkhorn Ranch Unit provides a fascinating addition to the trip.
Theodore Roosevelt first came to the North Dakota badlands in 1883 and developed a strong attachment to the landscape. He later established the Elkhorn Ranch here, where he spent time ranching and writing.
Today, little remains of the original ranch buildings, but the remote setting gives you a sense of why Roosevelt found the area so compelling. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit is considerably more isolated than the South and North Units, so check road conditions and allow plenty of time if you plan to visit.
Plan Time for Wildlife and Weather
One of the best things about Theodore Roosevelt National Park is that you do not necessarily need an ambitious itinerary. The scenic drive, overlooks and wildlife viewing can easily fill several hours, while short hikes can be added according to your interests and the weather.
Give yourself more time than the minimum driving time if possible. You may encounter a herd of bison blocking the road, stop repeatedly for wildlife photographs or simply find yourself wanting to linger at one of the overlooks.
Summer can be hot, while spring and autumn can bring rapidly changing conditions. Carry water, wear appropriate footwear and check the latest park information before heading out.
Include as part of a bigger road trip around Montana and the Dakotas
We spent a significant amount of time in South Dakota and Montana, on a month long road trip. Adding in North Dakota and Theodore Roosevelt National Park was the perfect stop in between.
When we have the opportunity to return, we will definitely spend more time in the town of Medora and the National Park, because there is so much to see. We’ll also attempt to do the hike that we missed due to the bison!
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