Staying in a castle in France is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and the Château de Lalande-Teritoria near Périgueux offers a foodie’s dream vacation. We stayed in this country estate as part of a bigger road trip through the south-west of France, and it exceeded our expectations with the tasting menu and focus on locally sourced delicacies.
Our explorations centred around Bordeaux, the Entre-deux-Mers and the Dordogne, and it really was a food-lover’s paradise (as well as being exceptional wine country). So, if you are looking to explore the gastronomic delights of the area before or after a Bordeaux River Cruise, this is the inspiration for you!
Exploring the Dordogne Region
The Dordogne region is a lush area inland from Bordeaux in the southwest of France. Encompassing the Dordogne River valley, Vézere Valley (known for its preserved prehistoric history), and ancient Gallo-Roman towns, it is famed for foie gras, walnuts, truffles and castles!
All this within 2 hours reach from Bordeaux – it really is an easy region of France to explore, by train, road trip, river cruise or tour.
Château de Lalande – Teritoria – Périgueux
There are chateaus everywhere in France – grand ones with turrets, old crumbling ones, private residences and public historic monuments. When searching for a chateau to stay in, you have so many options – some are very affordable, and others are VIP experiences saved for special occasions.
Fun Fact: In French, the word château generally refers to a manor house, castle, or large country estate – often historically associated with nobility or significant land ownership. While some believe a chateau must have at least 10 bedrooms, that’s not technically true – often wine producing estates are just fancy houses with a normal number of bedrooms!
The Château de Lalande – Teritoria is a 18th–19th century manor house, set in a forested estate, only 15 minutes from the city of Périgueux. It is flush with an understated elegance, creeping ivy and a courtyard, and a turret (turned into a bedroom)! It’s one of the smaller chateaus in the area, but there is a reason why we chose it – the food (more on that below).
The long driveway through centuries-old trees adds to the sense of grandeur and mystery. Through an ivy-covered gate brings you to the courtyard and reception. The decor is full of period features and grand furniture, but it is all restored and with modern upholstery – a good balance!
Château Rooms
We had a family suite, with a king bed for us, and a separate space with twin beds for Payton. Her room was in the turret, so she truly felt like a princess! It was really well laid out for families, and was decorated in a very period-suitable and elegant way.
It was the best of the old features, with all the modern necessities one needs.
NOTE: The Chateau is only open April – October
Château Restaurant & Tasting Menu
We had the most incredible tasting menu at the chateau. It highlighted French culture and traditions, specifically of the Périgord region, and the food and matching wines blew us away.
- We started with some amazing local caviar from Neuvic. Payton loves to try caviar whenever she gets a chance. John and I had a Bergerac Blanc Sec white wine paired alongside this and it was perfect.
- Our appetizer was Périgord duck foie gras cooked in salt and marinated in Rosette. Served with a Sauerkraut confit, Cider caramel, Fruit bread. It’s the first time I’ve actually enjoyed foie gras! We had it with a Monbazillac AOC, which was similar to a Sauternes but a little fresher.
- For our entrée, I had the beef and John had the trout – both were cooked to perfection. I had a Pécharmant AOC red to pair with my beef, and John had a Montravel Blanc Sec to match his trout. It was great trying all these new (to us) wines.
- We had the cheese course for dessert (although you can choose to have both cheese and dessert if you can fit it in! We tried Cabécou du Périgord, made from cow’s milk and refined with walnut liqueur, and some goat’s cheese with a Morello sauce. If you love cheese, never skip the cheese course in France – it’s revelatory! Payton had a hazelnut and quince dessert, which was light and not too filling after such a delicious menu.
Périgueux
Périgueux is a lovely-sized city. Small, walkable, full of interesting architecture, Gallo-Roman ruins and medieval alleyways. The highlight of our time here was a visit to Vesunna, a museum built on the remains of a Roman villa. It showcases impressive archaeological finds, including mosaics, artifacts, and Roman architecture. The museum kept John and Payton fascinated for hours.
Other things to see and do include:
- Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie du Périgord (MAAP) – One of France’s oldest museums, MAAP showcases prehistoric artifacts (including Neanderthal remains), medieval art, and classic paintings. It’s a treasure trove for history enthusiasts.
- Cathédrale Saint‑Front – This Byzantine-style cathedral was imagined by Paul Abadie, who also designed Sacre-Cœur in Paris. It stands on Le Puy hill and forms an important stop on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route.
- Jardin des Arènes – Built among the ruins of a Roman amphitheater, this peaceful terraced garden is ideal for rest after sightseeing or for a scenic picnic.
Road Trip Ideas for the South-West of France
Chateaus of the Dordogne River Valley
The Dordogne River Valley is home to dramatic medieval castles such as Château de Beynac and Château de Castelnaud, perched on cliffs overlooking the river. This area offers stunning views, picturesque villages, and easy access to river activities like kayaking.
Vézère Valley
Renowned for its prehistoric sites and cave art, the Vézère Valley includes iconic spots like Lascaux and Font-de-Gaume. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage area and a must-visit for anyone interested in early human history.
St Emilion
This charming medieval village is famous for its world-class red wines and underground monolithic church. Stroll cobbled streets, visit historic wine estates, and enjoy tastings in one of France’s premier wine regions.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux is known for its classical architecture, riverfront promenade, and the Cité du Vin wine museum. It’s also a gateway to some of the best vineyards in the world. Don’t miss a visit to the Bassins de Lumieres, an amazing art installation in an abandoned U-Boat submarine station.
Entre-Deux-Mers
Located between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, the Entre-Deux-Mers region is dotted with vineyards, bastide towns, and lesser-known but excellent wine producers. The town of Cadillac features a Renaissance château and hosts regular wine tastings. We had lunch at AGA, a Michelin guide restaurant with an incredible tasting menu at a great price.
Staying in a Castle in France
Staying at Château de Lalande-Teritoria was more than just a place to rest our weary road-tripping bodies – it was a chance to experience the French countryside at its most authentic. Between the elegant rooms, the peaceful gardens, and the exceptional dining, every detail reflected the region’s quiet luxury and love of gastronomy.
Whether you’re exploring the nearby markets and vineyards or simply enjoying a long, slow dinner in the chateau’s restaurant, this stay captured everything that makes France so special: timeless beauty, incredible food, and the joy of slowing down to savor it all!
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